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Article

Originally published in Provet e-Practice
11/16/2012

Cat Attacks - Play or Prey Behaviour?


The behaviour of cats is sometimes a wonder. Why would a peaceful, purring puss suddenly turn on its owner - biting, clawing and raking the very hand that pats it?

Contented one moment, demented the next is a good description of such behaviours. 'Jekyll-and-Hyde cats' is another descriptive term given to the cats that employ this deviant 'good guy-bad guy' routine.

If your cat attacks you in this manner, solving the behaviour calls for a bit of cunning.

Take a close look at your cat the next time this happens. While patting him or her, watch the eyes and ears and the tail. Usually, a dilation of the pupils or a 'black-eyed' look heralds the change in mood when aggression is on the way. The ears will sometimes flatten onto the back of its head, although not always, and the telltale tail will usually start swishing. You may not see all of these signs. Chances are they will happen so quickly that you're more intent on removing the embedded claws and teeth from your flesh than worrying about a detailed analysis of the cat's stereotypic communication cues!

However, if you do see these behaviours, move away from your cat or tip it off your lap if you can.

When a cat attacks you while you are cuddling it, it will often wrap its front feet around your forearm, and then embed its claws and its teeth into your flesh. It may then rake your skin with its back claws, thus causing quite an injury.

While this attack may appear vicious and may be damaging, I am not convinced that this behaviour is always an aggressive behaviour. I believe that it is often an aberrant form of play behaviour as it closely resembles the way in which kittens play with each other. You will often see this 'wrap and rake' technique when kittens play, but it is not so common when adult cats attack each other.

How can you solve this problem?

For these Jekyll and Hyde behaviours, I usually advise my clients to use a program of 'progressive patting'. Your aim when using this therapy is to reinforce the cat's friendly behaviour and to not allow the aggressive behaviour to develop.

Before we go any further, consider that aggression is damaging and dangerous. If you are unsure of your cat's behaviour then take no risks and seek professional advice first.

The first step is to estimate approximately for how long you can pat your cat without the 'aggression' occurring. This is quite important, as the rest of the therapy will work to extend this time. Let's assume the estimated time is two minutes.

The next step is to establish what special food reward the cat will adore and to use this to elicit acceptable behaviour, as described shortly. I suggest you try peanut paste, fish paste such as Anchovette paste, liverwurst spread or caviar dip!

You should reserve this food reward for 'therapy time' only. To give it at any other time will lessen its effectiveness.

Progressive-Patting Technique

Now for the process. When your cat is seeking, or ready for, attention, start patting it, but use a stopwatch to time your patting session. If the 'allocated patting time' is, say, two minutes, then at one minute give the cat a food reward. It is especially useful if your cat licks the food reward directly from your finger or takes it directly from your hand. When the two minutes has expired, immediately stop the attention and leave the cat alone by walking away or placing the cat on the ground if it is on your lap. It is important that you stop the patting before the cat gets irritable. It is also very useful if you can leave the cat 'wanting more' of the food treat and affection.

Repeat the 'two-minute tickle' three to four times per day for about three days. It should always be you who calls an end to the cuddles and pats and not the cat. However, if the cat makes any indication that it wants to leave, do not attempt to stop it.

If all is going well, extend the time. Increase it to three minutes with the food treat given close to the end of this time period at, say, two minutes. Now that the time is increasing, the object is to use the food treats to 'buy more patting time'. While the cat may be getting to the limits of its tolerance, the food treat will suddenly evoke interest and distract the cat. This further extends the boundaries of the cat's tolerance.

You will recall you previously found that two minutes was the cat's normal limit to patting. The food is, firstly, causing an extension of this time and secondly, is positively rewarding the cat for appropriate behaviour. Thirdly, you are the one who calls the end to the patting at the new, extended time and, lastly, the cat has not reinforced its 'aggressive' behaviour. That makes four wins for you and none for the cat. Congratulations!

The general principle is to now progressively extend the time of patting, with the food always coming towards the end of the patting session. Presenting food near the end will prolong the borrowed time. As success follows, gradually withdraw the food reward so the cat sometimes gets food and sometimes not. Food rewards used in such a fashion are very effective.

If Puss is unpredictable with its tolerance of the patting and sometimes attacks, then you may need to add a gentle form of discipline to the program. If possible, try 'Time Out' where the cat is placed in say, the laundry or bathroom but only for three to five minutes. The goal of 'Time Out' is to reward the calmness, not to punish the aggression.

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